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Wednesday, July 15

Budapest III - Caves, the Danube & the Opera

We went to the Palvogzi Stalactite Cave and the Szemlo Hill Cave. From our hotel, we crossed the Margit Hid bridge, overlooking Margit Island, where cars are banned into Buda. We needed to find the local HEV train. After much searching, we discovered it underground!! We took it and then a bus to reach the caves.

With the sun searing us with 33 deg C heat, it was refreshing to be chilled to one third of that temperature. The first 6cave had impressive looking stalactites and I was impressed by the still dripping mineral water. The cave is a dynamic system and it was different yesterday and will be different tomorrow. A guide spoke Hungarian but we had a sheet of paper in English, giving explanations of the different parts of the cave.

It was discovered in the 1930s when a sheep fell down a hole into the cave but not well explored or developed for tourists until the 1980s.

The second gave was a 15 minute walk away past houses in the burbs. There was a small but interesting exhibition with a 3D model of the caves as well as crystal samples. Yet again, there was a guide but no paper tranlslation, alas. This tour lasted about 50 min vs 15 min from before but seemed less interesting. No stalactites but technically named popcorn & cauliflower formations.

In the afternoon, E wanted to go to the Hungarian State Opera House tour, as there were no performances in July due to the holidays. It was overpriced at HUF2800 with the very annoying HUF500 photo tax. I detest it. A way to sponge money off people with cameras and|or make them buy leaflets and postcards. For professional photographers, there should be a (substantial) charge but not for amateurs. It started late, no doubt to get in as many punters as possible (there are only 2 tours a day). With the many different language groups, it was a squeeze. The neo-Renaissance design was impressive and the guide was well-informed during the 40 min tour. It was interesting to hear that 7 kg of gold was used and the building was part funded by Emperor Franz Josef who decreed it should be smaller than his beloved Viennese Opera House. It was indeed smaller but more beautiful so he only saw 1 act here.

I then went on to St Stephen Basillica and managed to get to the top of the coupoula which gave a fine vantage point over Pest.

I joined E in the evening as he wanted to go on a guided 1hr boat cruise up and down the Danube. With a multi-language radio commentary, the cost was HUF3000, a little overpriced as it did a big circle. However, a lot of information was packed in and the at-seat drinks service was well used.

We went to an all you can eat & drink buffet place www.trofeagrill.eu with restaurants in Buda & Pest. We went to the former, which charged HUF4500. The latter was 20% cheaper. It was a good spread with a theatre grill with 4 types of fish, including catfish & shark as well as chicken in various marinades. There were several types of soups including goulash as well as hot meat dishes, hot and cold vegetables, cakes and ice-cream. The food was delicious and the unlimited beer, house wine & soft drinks went down well. The drinks service varied depended on the collared waiter.

Replete, we waddled back over the Margit bridge to our hotel.

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