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Tuesday, July 14

Budapest II - Baths, Terror & Fish

As Budapest is famous for its baths, it was time to try one. The Szechenyi Furdo with its outdoor pool sounded like the ticket in 33 deg C heat.

It was a few metro stops from our hotel. We plunged into the thermal pools at varying temperatures. Then we ventured outside and enjoyed swimming surrounded by fantastic architecture and bodies. Some were older than others. We spotted the chess-players but there were at a table rather than in the water. I looked for a traditional massage but found it booked up. Only the Thai massage was available but unaffordable at 3 times the price.

Then, it was time to walk down what my guidebook called the most beautiful street in Hungary, Andrassy Ut, due to its leafy ambassadorial residences to its big brand shops. We, on the other hand, headed to the Terror Museum. It is devoted to the repression of the Hungarian people under repressive dictatorships. First, the Hungarians allied with the Germans in WW2, then they were occupied by them. Finally, they were occupied by the Soviets. There were moving videos, with subtitles but the interrogation room, the torture instruments and the cells were the most memorable.

We then stopped for lunch at a restaurant that had a terrace behind bars - how appropriate. I had pork crackling over noodles and sheep cheese. The noodles turned out to be more like spatzle or macaroni. It was a heavy meal but with only a few bits of pork. However, they had spicy fish soup on the menu, a Hungarian speciality.

I then went to St Stephen Basilica - there were a service on but I did not fancy paying to see his mummified right hand. Access to the top had been shut.

So, after walking along the most famous shopping street in Budapest, Vaci Ut, I am reminded it is like Amsterdam Damrak.

I walk back the way I came to go to the same restaurant for their fish soup but despite ordering 2, E does not get one. It is good when it arrives but strangely, they kick us out at 10pm.

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