Budapest III - Caves, the Danube & the Opera

We went to the Palvogzi Stalactite Cave and the Szemlo Hill Cave. From our hotel, we crossed the Margit Hid bridge, overlooking Margit Island, where cars are banned into Buda. We needed to find the local HEV train. After much searching, we discovered it underground!! We took it and then a bus to reach the caves.

With the sun searing us with 33 deg C heat, it was refreshing to be chilled to one third of that temperature. The first 6cave had impressive looking stalactites and I was impressed by the still dripping mineral water. The cave is a dynamic system and it was different yesterday and will be different tomorrow. A guide spoke Hungarian but we had a sheet of paper in English, giving explanations of the different parts of the cave.

It was discovered in the 1930s when a sheep fell down a hole into the cave but not well explored or developed for tourists until the 1980s.

The second gave was a 15 minute walk away past houses in the burbs. There was a small but interesting exhibition with a 3D model of the caves as well as crystal samples. Yet again, there was a guide but no paper tranlslation, alas. This tour lasted about 50 min vs 15 min from before but seemed less interesting. No stalactites but technically named popcorn & cauliflower formations.

In the afternoon, E wanted to go to the Hungarian State Opera House tour, as there were no performances in July due to the holidays. It was overpriced at HUF2800 with the very annoying HUF500 photo tax. I detest it. A way to sponge money off people with cameras and|or make them buy leaflets and postcards. For professional photographers, there should be a (substantial) charge but not for amateurs. It started late, no doubt to get in as many punters as possible (there are only 2 tours a day). With the many different language groups, it was a squeeze. The neo-Renaissance design was impressive and the guide was well-informed during the 40 min tour. It was interesting to hear that 7 kg of gold was used and the building was part funded by Emperor Franz Josef who decreed it should be smaller than his beloved Viennese Opera House. It was indeed smaller but more beautiful so he only saw 1 act here.

I then went on to St Stephen Basillica and managed to get to the top of the coupoula which gave a fine vantage point over Pest.

I joined E in the evening as he wanted to go on a guided 1hr boat cruise up and down the Danube. With a multi-language radio commentary, the cost was HUF3000, a little overpriced as it did a big circle. However, a lot of information was packed in and the at-seat drinks service was well used.

We went to an all you can eat & drink buffet place www.trofeagrill.eu with restaurants in Buda & Pest. We went to the former, which charged HUF4500. The latter was 20% cheaper. It was a good spread with a theatre grill with 4 types of fish, including catfish & shark as well as chicken in various marinades. There were several types of soups including goulash as well as hot meat dishes, hot and cold vegetables, cakes and ice-cream. The food was delicious and the unlimited beer, house wine & soft drinks went down well. The drinks service varied depended on the collared waiter.

Replete, we waddled back over the Margit bridge to our hotel.

Budapest II - Baths, Terror & Fish

As Budapest is famous for its baths, it was time to try one. The Szechenyi Furdo with its outdoor pool sounded like the ticket in 33 deg C heat.

It was a few metro stops from our hotel. We plunged into the thermal pools at varying temperatures. Then we ventured outside and enjoyed swimming surrounded by fantastic architecture and bodies. Some were older than others. We spotted the chess-players but there were at a table rather than in the water. I looked for a traditional massage but found it booked up. Only the Thai massage was available but unaffordable at 3 times the price.

Then, it was time to walk down what my guidebook called the most beautiful street in Hungary, Andrassy Ut, due to its leafy ambassadorial residences to its big brand shops. We, on the other hand, headed to the Terror Museum. It is devoted to the repression of the Hungarian people under repressive dictatorships. First, the Hungarians allied with the Germans in WW2, then they were occupied by them. Finally, they were occupied by the Soviets. There were moving videos, with subtitles but the interrogation room, the torture instruments and the cells were the most memorable.

We then stopped for lunch at a restaurant that had a terrace behind bars - how appropriate. I had pork crackling over noodles and sheep cheese. The noodles turned out to be more like spatzle or macaroni. It was a heavy meal but with only a few bits of pork. However, they had spicy fish soup on the menu, a Hungarian speciality.

I then went to St Stephen Basilica - there were a service on but I did not fancy paying to see his mummified right hand. Access to the top had been shut.

So, after walking along the most famous shopping street in Budapest, Vaci Ut, I am reminded it is like Amsterdam Damrak.

I walk back the way I came to go to the same restaurant for their fish soup but despite ordering 2, E does not get one. It is good when it arrives but strangely, they kick us out at 10pm.

Bratislava II - Devin, Budapest I - Goulash

To get out of the cities, we take a bus to Devin Castle, a ruin about 5 miles from the city. It is normally closed on Mondays but we are let in paying a reduced charge as the exhibition rooms are shut. The view of the Blue Danube and the Brown Moravia is spectacular.

When we get back, to cool off, I get 3 flavours of ice-cream for 1 euro to cool-off.

The train to Budapest is 10 minutes late again.

We get a metro to the hotel, which is pleasantly air-conditioned.

We wander in the dark to find a recommended restaurant, Mensa, with a 70s vibe. I have my first authentic goulash and it is tasty.

Prague IV - Train, Bratislava I - Back to the Future

It is 400km from Prague to Bratislava, about 4.5 hours. The train arrives 10 min Sign outlate. However, it is a 70s classic, with individual compartments & sliding doors for 6 and there are fans. We make an unscheduled stop at a train station to pick up refugees from an overheating modern express. We meet Aussies on their way to Vienna. 2 of them complain about the cost of living in Dublin. They get off at the next scheduled stop.

The train finally arrives in Bratislava 20 min late. After studying the various bus and tram routes, it looks like we need to take the trolley-bus. No. 13 - lucky for us. We arrive at the 15 storey Hotel Kjev. A throw-back to the 70s communist era, with its massive reception, thick brown swirl carpet and wooden furnishings. Our view on the 11th floor is great and the welcome is friendly. The hotel is past its prime. Curved ceramic towel hooks have been broken off and replaced by Ikea hangars in the bathroom. However, it is next to Tesco and I pick up some Hungarian biscuits for the office gannets.

We walk down to the Danube and thence to the compact old town. I find a recommended restaurant but it suspiciously posts no prices so we walk on to a cobbled streets lined with al-fresco restaurant seating. I order a traditional Slovakian dish and we share a bottle of wine - our first on this holiday. The meat, pork, bacon and sausage comes on a skewer. The roast potatoes have smooth skins and the sauce is very tasty.